Milan - General Information

Milan is something of an oddity among Italian cities. It doesn’t boast the overpowering sense of antiquity you find in Rome. Nor is it as achingly beautiful as Florence or Venice. Outside of the historic centre, most of the architecture is comprised of soot-laced concrete – a legacy of the city’s industrial past. None the less, it remains a prosperous epicentre of chic and boasts such treasures as the Duomo cathedral, La Scala Opera House and Leonardo da Vinci’s Last Supper. Its reputation dwells in its status as Italy’s financial, media and fashion centre. Small wonder, then, that Milanesi are reputed to greet visitors who have arrived from the south of the country with the salutation, “You’ve left Italy. Welcome to Europe.”

Milan’s stylish modern image belies a turbulent history. It was first established in the 7th century BC by the Celts. Its name was Mediolanum, meaning ‘in the middle of the plain.’ During the 4th century AD it was briefly the capital of the Western Roman Empire and was sacked by the Goths in the 600s. In Renaissance times it was controlled by notoriously venal, despotic families, like the Viscontis and Sforzas. But over succeeding centuries it passed through the hands of France, Spain and Austria, having to rebuild itself several times after conquest by foreign invaders. It became part of the independent republic of Italy in 1861. After that it gradually shifted the focus its economy from agriculture and silk production to various types of manufacture. In World War Two it was the engine of the Mussolini’s war machine and the Nazi’s northern command post. As a result nearly a quarter of the city was flattened by Allied bombing, though miraculously The Last Supper survived a direct hit. It rebuilt itself, as it had done many times before, and established its current reputation for pre-eminence in fashion and finance – the new Alpine tunnels allowing it to trade more and more effectively with countries to the north.

The best way to orientate yourself around modern Milan is to think of it as a sort of spider’s web, with the Duomo squatting at its centre and various arterial routes stretching out to connect with the industrial suburbs and the ring road that girdles the whole city. Indeed its position in the main square makes the Duomo probably the best place to begin sightseeing. Bristling with spires, this vast structure is the largest example of late-Gothic architecture in Europe. The interior is solemn yet majestic and the view of the Alps from the rooftop – with Most Blanc visible on a clear day – is stunning.

Outside the historic centre there are plenty of other things well worth seeing. To the north there are the beautiful gardens of Porta Venezia. To the south-west, the area by Il Naviglio teems with nightclubs. To the north-west, famous for its exhibitions and trade fairs, is the Fiera complex. And to the east there’s Città Studi, with Italy’s most prestigious business University.

Milan is just as exclusive as the somewhat overheated advance publicity would lead you to expect, but also more sober. Though the number of willowy, itinerant fashion models swaying along the streets does raise the average level of beauty, most of the permanent inhabitants dress in styles which, while impeccable, are far more understated than those on display in the boutique windows. In the same way, the gorgeous historic centre is enclosed by a modern, cosmopolitan Italian city that goes about its business in an uncharacteristically discreet and focused way.